While Tom Schaudel orchestrates Jewel, chef Lenny Campanelli adroitly captains Schaudel's flagship restaurant, CoolFish, in Syosset.

CoolFish earned a three-star rating in 2000, when the concept and the courses were refreshing and new. It's now a very reliable spot for lunch and dinner.

The look definitely hasn't changed. CoolFish manages to thrive in a windowless space in the North Shore Atrium office building.

Site aside, you'll enjoy Campanelli's food, which hews to the contemporary approach Schaudel has championed since his big splash a century ago at the long-departed Downtown Grille in Montauk.

Flatbreads remain good when shared over drinks while you go through the menu. Try the one with Taleggio. Then: cornmeal-crusted fried oysters, crunchy and sweet, atop spicy avocado. And Campanelli prepares an excellent, cinnamon-chipotle-marinated, double-cut pork chop with sweet potatoes.

An upside-down apple tart that's a tasty cousin of tarte Tatin has maintained its appeal. Go for the Schaudel staple, the "chocolate bag" -- a stylized sundae, with dark chocolate molded into the slightly crinkly, rectangular shape of a bag, filled with vanilla ice cream, bananas, caramel and more.

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