As his opulent Jewel finds its setting in Melville, Tom Schaudel's long-running CoolFish continues a flavorful run in Syosset.

CoolFish, which earned three stars in 2000, is the steady, essential restaurant in the on-the-move chef's ever-changing repertoire. Schaudel operates A Mano in Mattituck and A Lure in Southold, too.

But you'll find him in the kitchen at Jewel these days. Lenny Campanelli is sending out the food at CoolFish.

And Campanelli's generous, satisfying fare is easily recommended, keeping to the contemporary fare that carries the Schaudel autograph and expanding on it, too.

The flip-side of the CoolFish business card announces "It's hot." On a weekend night, that's for sure. The eatery also is a popular lunch spot, even in its windowless, underground-style space in the North Shore Atrium complex.

Years later, it still has the look and feel of a den or a deluxe finished basement, with well-kept exposed brick, black-and-white artwork and a busy bar. The pathway to the door has plenty of cracks.

But enjoy Campanelli's juicy, sweet cinnamon-chipotle double-cut pork chop with maple-whipped potatoes; cornmeal-crusted oysters; tuna in any guise; and the designer pizzas. For the record, Schaudel's "chocolate bag," a grand sundae that dates to summers at the departed Downtown Grille in Montauk, remains the big dessert.

Be glad it does.

CoolFish, 6800 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-921-3250.

The entrance to CoolFish.


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