Crisp, whole red snapper highlights the menu at CoolFish in...

Crisp, whole red snapper highlights the menu at CoolFish in Syosset, in June 2014. Credit: Newsday / Peter M. Gianotti

CoolFish remains situated in a windowless space in an anonymous building that opens onto a parking lot. Steven Del Lima is the latest chef to let the light in.

The Syosset restaurant, which keeps its stylized, contemporary interior, is under new management. Chef-owner Tom Schaudel sold it last year to the Singh Hospitality Group.

Del Lima currently is the consulting chef and also is cooking at CoolFish. And, as he has done at restaurants as different from each other as Huntington's Black & Blue Seafood Chophouse and Perfecto Mundo in Commack, Del Lima elevates this one. The busy Del Lima also is executive chef at the Chow Down Diner in Bethpage.

His refreshing hits in Syosset include a vivid, chilled Satur Farms asparagus soup floating crab-grilled cheese croutons and oyster mushroom chips; and a generous, crisp-skinned, snowy-inside red snapper that looks as if it were cooked in mid-swim. The snapper benefits from a charred jalapeno-basil vinaigrette and grilled vegetable hash.

CoolFish fans will be happy to know that the dessert list still is topped by the "twisted chocolate bag," an artful sundae with gelati, caramelized banana, chocolate fudge, caramel sauce and crunchy, sweet pecans.

CoolFish, 6800 Jericho Tpke., Syosset; 516-921-3250.


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