Crossroads Cafe

From the outside, the Crossroads Cafe in East Northport gives the appearance of a neighborhood bar where you might expect to find a passable burger but little else of interest. Look closer.

For eight years, chef-owner Rob Haddow has been quietly keeping locals in the know happy with an eclectic menu that makes the most of quality ingredients. Most nights, a companionable crowd looks well entrenched at the bar. On weekends, the two dining rooms fill. This is a restaurant where people feel comfortable bringing the kids. The ambience is warm and underrated.

Included in the price of every entree is a perfectly dressed field greens salad topped with Gorgonzola cheese. What's more, every table gets a gratis starter of bruschetta served with a chickpea puree plated alongside the individual ingredients included in that puree: whole chickpeas, basil oil, garlic and balsamic vinegar. This means appetizers are not really necessary.

Still, you might enjoy trying a few. One night, a crabmeat cocktail special came in a martini glass, the sweet lump crab meat lightly dressed with an herbal vinaigrette. Steamed Prince Edward Island mussels basked in a white wine, herb and garlic broth dotted with chopped tomatoes. I liked the fine eggplant Napoleon made with goat cheese, sun-dried tomatoes and fresh mozzarella. Skewered Cajun shrimp were grilled to the precise degree of doneness, spiced to a gentle smolder.

Haddow's penne ala vodka was luxurious, dotted with prosciutto and plump shrimp. Rob's spicy farfalle, made with Italian sausage, red pepper, spinach, bacon and prosciutto, proved gratifying.

But chicken Christina, boneless breasts sauteed with artichokes, broccoli, roasted red peppers and mushrooms, was bland. Equally fussy and uninteresting was veal Patricia, veal scallops sauteed with shrimp, baby arti.chokes and mushrooms in a Sherry veal reduction. Opt instead for the terrific fillet of salmon with an herb and horseradish crust. One night, a special of cumin-pecan crusted chicken with a chipotle beurre blanc proved a knockout, served with an addictive mound of saffron-spiked orzo.

A dessert must is the chocolate coupe, a dense dark mousse served with freshly whipped cream and seasonal berries. The chocolate raspberry truffle cake that was offered another evening was intense and moist, worth the caloric expenditure.

Although prices for a few items may seem a bit high for the "Eats" category, keep in mind that Haddow serves generous portions. Budget-conscious diners will get more than their money's worth on Tuesday nights, when the Crossroads serves an all-you- can-eat roster of pastas for $10.95 a person. Not bad for a Saturday night kind of place.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 5/16/03.