A kati roll with paneer at Curry Leaf in Selden.

A kati roll with paneer at Curry Leaf in Selden. Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Clay Oven, the inventive South Asian fusion restaurant that opened a year ago in Selden, has been replaced by Curry Leaf.

Since 2014, Lubna Habibi has operated Clay Ovens in Smithtown (2014), Hauppauge (2017) and Selden. Now only Hauppauge remains open.

Whereas Clay Oven offered a blend of classic South Asian dishes with a bit of Middle Eastern, Hakka (Indian-style Chinese) and even tacos thrown in for good measure, Curry Leaf sticks to traditional dishes from India, Pakistan and Bangladesh. The restaurant is owned by the Parvez family, originally from Bangladesh and recently relocated from Queens to Suffolk County.

Among the Bangladeshi specialties served at Curry Leaf are chingri malai curry (shrimp simmered in coconut milk), ilish bhaja (fish fried in mustard oil and served with chilies) and the rich lamb curry, rezala, made with yogurt and cashews nuts. Pakistani chapli kebabs and karahi and nihari chicken are also available, along with Indian dishes from all over the subcontinent, from chicken vindaloo to chicken tikka masala. The abundant vegetarian items include kati rolls made with paneer (cheese) and baingain bhurta eggplant.

Curry Leaf,1245 Middle Country Rd., Selden, 631-320-0386.

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