D19 in Ronkonkoma: First bites
Potato cups at D19 in Ronkonkoma Credit: Newsday, 2011/Joan Reminick
The bar was packed, the flat-screen TVs tuned to sports channels on a recent visit to D19 Sports Lounge & Eatery in Ronkonkoma.
No question, D19’s chef, Jesse Frascella, knows how to cook, especially when it comes to pub classics. I’m a fan of his crunchy, smoky potato cups, hollowed out spuds fried and filled with chopped bacon and Cheddar, dolloped with sour cream and scallions. His chicken wings with a Cajun dry rub are crisp and spicy.
But what was the guy thinking when he built a chicken Marsala tower? I don’t appreciate the task of removing wooden skewers in order to cut a piece of meat. The boneless poultry, topped with prosciutto and provolone, was virtually drowning in its moat of mushroom-tomato-wine sauce. A more straightforward presentation would have saved the dish, which actually tasted pretty good.
Come to think of it, I would like to see an end to food towers everywhere. That kind of architectural plating went out at least a decade ago. For those who don't know: flat food is in — and that's because it makes sense.
D19 Sports Lounge & Eatery, 519 Hawkins Ave., Ronkonkoma, 631-235-7651
Above: Potato cups at D19 in Ronkonkoma
