Creamed chanterelles, grilled local asparagus under toast, baby arugula topped...

Creamed chanterelles, grilled local asparagus under toast, baby arugula topped with a slab of Humboldt Fog goat cheese and a soft poached organic egg is one of the seasonal specials served at The LakeHouse in Bay Shore. Credit: Doug Young

Forsythia and daffodils are in bloom. Your appetite is soon to follow, looking for light, bright fare. Here are three restaurants, each rated three stars, that will refresh you.

Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar in Lynbrook is a flavorful Italian reverie in an unlikely location. Surprises abound. Recommended: grilled octopus with shaved fennel and diced oranges; burrata with tomatoes on the vine, roasted peppers, and baby arugula; saffron gnocchetti with shrimp and crab; trofie pasta with pesto; pan-seared Sicilian red shrimp with cannellini beans and arugula with pistachio crumbs. Moderate.

Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar, 174 Merrick Rd., Lynbrook, 516-599-0298,

The LakeHouse in Bay Shore serves a view of Great South Bay and lively, seasonal cuisine. Recommended: vegetable salad with creamed chanterelles, asparagus, arugula; poached egg, and Humboldt Fog goat cheese; wild mushroom risotto with hon-shimeji mushrooms, asparagus, truffled pecorino cheese, and summer truffle; caramelized local scallops with green-garlic mussel broth; crisp Long Island duck breast and confit with pomegranate-pistachio glaze. Expensive.

The LakeHouse, 135 Maple Ave., Bay Shore, 631-666-0995,

Nick & Toni’s in East Hampton lures you year-round, but especially in spring and summer. Recommended: spring-pea agnolotti; chicken liver pate with pickled rhubarb; asparagus salad with egg and pecorino pepato; tagliatelle with spring lamb ragu and fava beans; spaghetti with grilled royal trumpet mushrooms, ramps, and duck egg; pan-roasted catch of the day with spring-pea puree and roasted spring onions; seared scallops with lemon risotto and spring-pea salad. Expensive.

Nick & Toni’s, 136 N. Main St., East Hampton, 631-324-3550,

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