This is the new Daisho in Huntington. (Sept, 2012)

This is the new Daisho in Huntington. (Sept, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Joan Reminick

It was hard to believe that a small wooden skewer of grilled meat could deliver so much flavor. In fact, the pork yakitori at the new Daisho of Japan in Huntington looked kind of shriveled and brown. One bite, though, unleashed such a moist and spicy burst that I found myself taken aback.  At $1.75, that skewer — which held three pieces of meat — had to be one of the town’s top bargains.

It didn’t stop there. Skewered quail eggs wrapped in bacon ($2.95) played the smoky-salty against the smooth and creamy. And then, there were shrimp ($1.95), so succulent and spicy.

For a main course, a big bowl of ramen noodle soup harbored a tangle of fresh toothsome noodles and plenty of smoky roasted pork in an ultra-savory pork broth.

All that and a spot-on rainbow roll from the sushi bar ($10.95).

The restaurant, dramatically dark and surprisingly spacious, makes its home in the former Dragon Gate space and is under the same partial ownership. Dragon Gate, now a takeout situated around the corner at 6 Green St., Huntington, 631-385-8100, is connected through the kitchen.

Daisho of Japan is at 308 Main St., Huntington, 631-385-8102.