DoraNonnie in Glen Head: First bites
Chef Danny Gagnon is now at Jellyfish in Centerport Credit: Handout
Bernard's Market has hosted a cafe, a sushi bar and doubtless a lot more. Now, it has a restaurant.
DoraNonnie Tapas & Wine Bar @ Bernard's is the full title, but the eatery with ex-"Top Chef" contestant Danny Gagnon has as much to do with traditional tapas as reality TV does with reality . This is a small-and-larger plates spot that materializes in part of the old store like "Brigadoon." The space has been formalized, complete with food-related quotes from celebrities and gastronomes, doing a 360 along the walls.
The cuisine: "Italian Asian Fusion." Price range: "tapas," $8 to $12; pastas and main dishes, $11 to $18.
Early on, the service is uneven. And the size of the tables ensures you can't order too much. But Gagnon's wide-ranging menu is fun, whether you're nibbling on well-seasoned "Sicilian Asian braised short ribs sliders" capped with caponata or "pork & beef meatball lollipops" rising from a bowl of red sauce. "Creamy clam cakes" are accented with "Thai basil lemon jam." The "mascarpone teriyaki risotto" is completed with shaved provolone.
Mostly, it works, so stop in. Besides, the stuff in the market is very good, too.
DoraNonnie Tapas & Wine Bar @ Bernard's, 716 Glen Cove Ave., Glen Head; 516-759-9100.
Danny Gagnon.
