EAT Gastropub in Oceanside: First bites
With gastropubs cropping up all over Long Island, it’s getting to be a challenge distinguishing one craft-beer-and-updated-comfort-food venue from the other. Yet despite its rather commonplace name, the new EAT Gastropub in Oceanside sets itself apart.
For one thing, it has an on-site greenhouse for growing many of the herbs, greens and even the beets that may end up on your plate. Then, there’s chef co-owner John Maher, whose resume includes stints at Picholine and Le Cirque and Manhattan.
But a chef is only as good as the last meal he or she has cooked. On a recent afternoon, Maher proved himself at the outset with a salad of watermelon over microgreens. Dotting the greens were pickled red onion, fresh mint, feta and black sesame seeds. Even the salad's balsamic vinaigrette — usually the most boring dressing going — had spark. An old fashioned-good chicken potpie, served in an iron pan with a buttery, flavorful puff pastry dome on top, was super-satisfying. Then, there was a juicy, nicely spiced turkey burger served with house-made pickles and nutty-sweet hand-cut fries, all plated on a wooden plank.
And that was just lunch.
The place, decorated in a homespun industrial chic, has a separate barroom, party room and outdoor beer garden.
EAT Gastropub is at 2823 Long Beach Rd., Oceanside, 516-766-9547, eatgastropubny.com