El Portrero
MEXICAN. With so many Mexican immigrants in the city, it's surprising that good, cheap Mexican meals aren't easier to find. Among the borough's most reliable Mexican restaurants, El Potrero, a cozy neighborhood hangout that serves frosty margaritas, is one of my favorites.
The tables in the dimly lit dining room are topped with cotton tablecloths. Decorative thatched roofing hangs over the bar and a jukebox plays Mexican mariachi music. El Potrero recently came under new management, but despite the change, the service hasn't skipped a beat. The kitchen continues to serve well-prepared Mexican food at reasonable, if not cheap, prices.
Get acquainted with the restaurant during the lunch hour, when business tends to be slow. There are different daily specials for $4.95; they're a bargain, especially with generous sides of rice, beans, tortilla chips and salsa. Don't miss out on the complimentary chips, made fresh at the restaurant, and the accompanying green chili dip.
On a recent visit, I had chicken enchiladas with mole sauce, served with rice and beans. The enchiladas - fresh corn tortillas, stuffed with shredded chicken, topped with a nutty, chocolate sauce, and jack and cheddar cheeses, then baked - were delicious, especially with bites of tender Spanish rice, and creamy pinto beans. My dining companion had chicken flautas - corn tortillas stuffed with shredded meat, then rolled like cigars and deep-fried; they were quite tasty, especially smeared with sour cream and salsa.
For an entirely different atmosphere and experience, come in the evening, when the room fills up with young Mexican men, hanging out at the well-stocked bar and listening to the jukebox, or watching soccer on the overhead televisions.
Reviewed by Rose Kim
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