Escorza's Mexican Restaurant, which occupies the former digs of Sicilia in Levittown, is a particularly vibrant spot. Consider giving it a try on Taco Tuesday, when tacos go for $2 apiece all day.
If you're like me, you'll want to get them Mexican style, wrapped in soft corn tortillas, showered with chopped cilantro and onion. Best of the six sampled were the spicy chorizo tacos and succulent tongue, followed by the carnitas (roasted pork) and steak. Least favorite: the rather boring chicken and fried fish.
Other dishes to seek out: The resonant tortilla soup, beautifully presented. And a sprightly seafood salad featuring calamari, mussels, clams and shrimp topped with cilantro, dressed with olive oil and lemon.
Prices are moderate, with all but two dishes (mixed fajitas and steak ranchero) under $20. Bonus: Owner Rene Escorza is a warm and welcoming presence in the dining room.
Escorza's Mexican Restaurant is at 2715 Hempstead Tpke., Levittown, 516-597-5600