First bites: Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn

At Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn, deviled eggs are showered with chives. (May 1, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus
Hendrick Onderdonk hosted George Washington. George and Gillis Poll are ready for you.
That gutsy overhaul includes the menu, which includes small plates, artisanal cheese, designer pizzas, a raw bar, prime steaks, finfish, and also allows for chicken Parm, lobster fried rice and shrimp tempura.
Among the winners: the Kobe beef hot dog, which becomes the deluxe pig-in-a-blanket; mellow deviled eggs showered with snippets of chive; crisp Brussels sprout leaves that approach candy; and, as you'd expect from the owners of Bryant & Cooper, a juicy sirloin.
The tab turns pricey in hurry. But you can sensibly navigate your way through it, doubtless more successfully than the driver of a Ferrari who, the other night, was trying to vroom-vroom out of the parking lot.
Enjoy your ride.
Hendrick's Tavern, 1305 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn; 516-621-1200.