At Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn, deviled eggs are showered with...

At Hendrick's Tavern in Roslyn, deviled eggs are showered with chives. (May 1, 2012) Credit: Newsday/Erica Marcus

Hendrick Onderdonk hosted George Washington. George and Gillis Poll are ready for you.

That gutsy overhaul includes the menu, which includes small plates, artisanal cheese, designer pizzas, a raw bar, prime steaks, finfish, and also allows for chicken Parm, lobster fried rice and shrimp tempura.

Among the winners: the Kobe beef hot dog, which becomes the deluxe pig-in-a-blanket; mellow deviled eggs showered with snippets of chive; crisp Brussels sprout leaves that approach candy; and, as you'd expect from the owners of Bryant & Cooper, a juicy sirloin.

The tab turns pricey in hurry. But you can sensibly navigate your way through it, doubtless more successfully than the driver of a Ferrari who, the other night, was trying to vroom-vroom out of the parking lot.

Enjoy your ride.

Hendrick's Tavern, 1305 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn; 516-621-1200.

 
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