Drinks: Generations of Tuscan excellence

The Antinori family has been making wine in Tuscany for more than 600 years. Today, Marchese Piero Antinori directs the company, which also produces wines in Umbria. They're expressive and top-quality at all price points. And that definitely includes the current vintages from the 26th generation.

Two versatile, flavorful party wines are the 2010 Villa Antinori Bianco ($14) and the 2008 Villa Antinori Rosso ($24). The white blend is a fruity, refreshing pick with antipasti. The red, mostly sangiovese, goes with everything from pizza to beef braciola.

Antinori's medium-bodied 2008 Pèppoli Chianti Classico ($27) is ideal with baked pastas and fine with grilled chicken or beef. The 2006 Marchese Antinori Chianti Classico Riserva ($35), a richer, fuller red, is a supple partner for pasta with meat sauce.

More complex: the ruby-hued 2006 Badia a Passignano Chianti Classico Riserva ($53), still a bit tannic, but loaded with cherry and raspberry. Try it with roast lamb, roast beef, stews, game.

The big sangiovese-based wine at Antinori is the elegant 2007 Tignanello ($99). This was the wine that launched the "Super Tuscan" category 40 years ago. The blend adds cabernet sauvignon and cabernet franc. Here's vino writ large, intense and concentrated, with notes of cherry and spice.

And the Antinori repertoire peaks with the 2007 Solaia ($275). This great wine, which you may find, along with the others, often at lower prices, is a study in balance and harmony; a smooth, ruby beauty defined by cabernet sauvignon, rife with cassis and plum. Consider it an early toast to the holidays ahead. Sensational.