A 2008 Lenz Cuvee is poured for family and friends...

A 2008 Lenz Cuvee is poured for family and friends at the home of chef John Ross. (Nov. 3, 2013) Credit: Randee Daddona

Chef John Ross believes that Thanksgiving wines "should have the same emotional appeal as Thanksgiving foods."

He sticks to some general food and wine pairing rules for the meal, serving a sparkling wine with appetizers before dinner and a light, fruity red with his turkey and rich side dishes.

But his choices also are personal. He has decades-long relationships with many North Fork winemakers, and takes pride in pouring some of his favorite bottles on Thanksgiving, including a 2008 Lenz Cuvee and a 1997 Lenz Old Vines Merlot Magnum at this meal. His daughter is married to a German winemaker, so the dry riesling chosen for the Moroccan-spiced pumpkins comes from the family's vineyard in Germany. And the ice wine Ross opened for dessert, an Inniskillin Vidal, is from his birthplace, Ontario, Canada.

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