Raising the bar at Long Island wine bars

Sam Le Dily pours wine into a decanter at Vintage Port in Port Washington. Credit: Photo by Kirsten Luce
Salute, salud and sláinte!
Prosit, skaal and a votre santé!
Cin cin, kampai and cheers!
There are plenty of ways to toast the new generation of wine bars that are pouring across Long Island. You'll find wines by the glass and by the bottle, with food that goes from basic cheese plates and bowls of olives to top-restaurant main dishes.
Here's a taste - and a sip.
Bordeaux Bar & Lounge
324 Sunrise Hwy., Rockville Centre, 516-442-1530, bordeauxbarlounge.com
COST $$
STYLE Bar and lounge, equally divided. Wine-dark hues, ersatz Euro-artwork.
WINE About two dozen selections by the glass, more by the bottle, from familiar producers.
FOOD Led by small plates, including modest cheese selection with honey, prosciutto-ricotta-arugula flatbread and tomato flatbread with buffalo mozzarella and pecorino, bruschetta, baked clams oreganata, coconut-crusted shrimp, salads.
Cuvee Bistro & Bar
326 Front St., Greenport, 631-477-0066, thegreenporter.com
COST $$
STYLE Modern, summery look. It's situated in The Greenporter hotel complex.
WINE More than 40 wines by the glass; 30 in bottles. Good, well-chosen selection of Long Island wines.
FOOD The bistro's cheeses, cured meats, onion soup, steak frites, steak au poivre, fried calamari, crab cakes, salade Niçoise, mini tuna burgers, mussels in saffron-lemongrass broth, and other dishes available in the wine bar.
Northport Tasting Room & Wine Cellar
70 Main St., Northport, 631-261-0642, northportwines.com
COST $$
STYLE SoHo-inspired; very "green," repurposing materials from former stationery store. Adjoining wine shop.
WINE Wide-ranging, eclectic international selection, with 30 wines by the glass. Wine flights chosen by customers. Bottles available. (Bottled beers, too.)
FOOD In addition to the house's tapas, dishes available from Northport restaurants, including courses from tasting menu at Maroni Cuisine, delivered to table.
O's Food and Wine Bar
552 North Country Rd., St. James, 631-584-4600, osfoodandwinebar.com
COST $$-$$$
STYLE Relaxed, New American restaurant with table service.
WINE Twenty-seven wines by the glass, including sparkling wines; about 50 by the bottle. Specific wines paired with four tapas on Wednesdays and Thursdays.
FOOD Savory tapas, including fried oysters, meatballs and goat-cheese risotto, crab cakes, grilled cheese, house-prepared sweet-spicy nuts and international selections that vary. Main dishes include grilled swordfish, short ribs bourguignonne.
The Vine Wine Bar
2259 Merrick Rd., Merrick, 516-812-7883, thevinewinebar.com
COST $$
STYLE Contemporary and accommodating. High tables with stools. Large open area in rear room. Sofas with low tables near bar.
WINE About 60 wines by the glass from familiar and lesser-known producers. Red and white wine flights. (Cocktails, bottled beers, coffees, too.)
FOOD Cheeses, cured meats, panini; appetizers such as hummus, prosciutto-wrapped melon, white bean-tapenade dip; desserts including berries and cream, red-velvet cupcake.
VINe
100 South St. (at First Street), Greenport, 631-477-6238, vinewinebar.com
COST $$
STYLE Country setting with wraparound porch; clubby interior, with mahogany, marble-topped bar. Wine bar with adjoining First Street Restaurant. Seating in both rooms. Outdoor tables weather permitting.
WINE More than 50 wines by taste, glass, bottle. Easygoing approach to tastings.
FOOD Short, changing seasonal menu from restaurant. Recent dishes included ricotta gnocchi with Catapano Dairy Farm cheese, house-cured smoked salmon, coq au vin, pulled pork.
Vintage Port
109D Main St., Port Washington, 516-883-1033
COST $$
STYLE A friendly wine bar and cafe, Vintage Port is owned by the departed Bistro du Village across the street.
WINE Twelve wines by the glass, 30 by the bottle; you're encouraged to choose your own flights of wines.
FOOD Savory crepes with mesclun salad, cheese plates, tartines, paté, croque monsieur sandwich, stews, endive and arugula salads, onion soup, shrimp scampi-style, escargots.
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