The best Italian wines for fall

White truffles may be far from the budget and wild boar out of range, but there are a few other ways to enjoy a taste of the Italian autumn. Marchesi di Grésy in Piedmont and Fattoria La Valentina in Abruzzo have bottled some.

La Valentina’s 2011 “Spelt” Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC ($20) delivers red fruit and a hint of violets: a concentrated red to go with red meat. The producer’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC ($14) uncorks as a bargain, with notes of spice, plum, red fruit. This straightforward red is a match for pasta Bolognese.

And La Valentina also offers a diverting rosato for lighter grilled meats and seafood. Naturally the 2014 Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC ($12) is prettily pink, with a suggestion of cherries. For a floral white to accompany antipasti and seafood, there’s the easygoing 2014 La Valentina Pecorino Colline Pescaresi IGT ($16).

Marchesi di Grésy comes through with the very appealing 2012 Dolcetto d’Alba Aribaldo DOC ($20), to accompany antipasti and red-sauce dishes. Marchesi di Grésy’s medium-bodied 2013 Barbera d’Asti ($18), loaded with cherries and berries, works well with cured meats, cheeses, tomato-based dishes, plus hamburgers, sausages and stews. The fuller 2014 Nebbiolo Martinenga Langhe DOC ($22) calls for roast beef and pasta with meat sauce.

Just in case you do discover a truffle, locate that boar, or simply would like a rich partner for fare ranging from eggplant Parmigiana to osso buco, consider the 2011 Martinenga Barbaresco DOCG ($50), a vivid, balanced, intense nebbiolo.

Time for a mushroom risotto. And start roasting chestnuts.