Kosher wines traditionally see a spike in sales as Passover approaches.

Many of these wines complement the holiday table, but they're also fine choices year-round. It's all a long way from the days when you'd choose between extra-heavy Malaga and cream white concord.

Decades later, of course, Manischewitz sells a lot of concord-grape wine, white and red, on the sweet side, and for less than $10.

If you're preparing the seder meal, there are, however, plenty of other routes. You might prefer a dry wine with the brisket or with a roasted lamb shank and spring vegetables.

From Israel, consider the 2007 Psagot Edom ($32), a hearty blend that's three-quarters cabernet sauvignon, one-quarter merlot, and ideal with red meat. The wine has hints of vanilla and spice.

The 2007 Simi Sonoma County Zinfandel ($17) delivers a harvest of fruit and works with beef, too; the 2007 Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($20), is right with lamb.

To go with roast chicken, the options are many. They include the 2007 Carmel Private Collection Merlot ($18), a fruity red from Galilee; and a very dependable, crisp white, the 2008 Goose Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc ($20) from New Zealand.

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