Shellfish fra diavolo at Franina in Syosset is hot and...

Shellfish fra diavolo at Franina in Syosset is hot and spicy. Credit: Yvonne Albinowski

The coldest nights of winter call for warmth on the plate and in the dining room. Here are three restaurants that are especially recommended during the deep freeze.

Franina in Syosset is one of Long Island’s top Italian spots, with refined style and dependably first-class fare. Recommended: pappardelle alla Bolognese, paccheri pasta with braised short-rib, seafood risotto, baked lobster, grilled pork chop with spicy cherry peppers, rib-eye steak, osso buco alla Milanese. $$$

Franina, 58 Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 516-496-9770,

Bistro Cassis in Huntington is among the region’s most appealing French destinations, cozy and consistent. Recommended: roast chicken for two, hanger steak Bordelaise, steak au poivre, striped bass Provençal, frisée aux lardons, escargots, the raw bar, and the nightly special dish. $$-$$$

Bistro Cassis, 55 Wall St., Huntington, 631-421-4122,

Cooperage Inn in Baiting Hollow is an old-fashioned American eatery, fine for the whole family, and always dressed for the season. Recommended: crab-and-shrimp cocktail, chicken potpie, meatloaf with garlic mashed potatoes, grilled pork chop with apple-mango chutney, seared ahi tuna. $$-$$$

Cooperage Inn, 2218 Sound Ave., Baiting Hollow, 631-727-8994,

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