Gail Grasso's restaurant, which started as Trattoria Grasso in Huntington in 1994, has undergone a few transformations over the years. Its current iteration is a Cold Spring Harbor magnet for very good New American cuisine and the music that makes it sing even more. The proprietor, on Saturday, Aug. 3, talked about her inspiration, while the executive chef, Tony Canales, prepared a grilled swordfish steak with pesto risotto, a dish he said, 'everybody loves.' Credit: Daniel Brennan

 
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