Bucatini all'Amatriciana at OEVO in Great Neck. Shot April 30...

Bucatini all'Amatriciana at OEVO in Great Neck. Shot April 30 2010. Credit: Erica Marcus

Pleasant dinner at OEVO this weekend. The pasta pictured here was billed as bucatini alla Matriciana but is more properly known as bucatini all’Amatriciana since it hails from the Lazio town of Amatrice. In any event, it features tomatoes and guanciale, cured pork jowel. I wish this version had been more porky (jowely?) but it was tasty nevertheless. Our two other pastas, fettuccine with wild mushrooms and black linguine with shellfish were also very good. These followed two good apps: fried calamari and wood-oven-roasted veal meatballs.

I am sorry to say that the price of the many daily specials were not given in writing—nor verbally, until I asked our waiter. As I reported in this column, the law requires restaurants to post the specials, in writing, either on each table, along with the regular menu, or on a “prominently displayed” blackboard or whiteboard. Violations can be reported to the Nassau County’s Office of Consumer Affairs (516-571-2600) and the penalty is up to $100 for the first violation and up to $250 for violations thereafter. (A comparable law is in effect in Suffolk County; the Suffolk County Office of Consumer Affairs can be reached at 631-853-4600. Here are links to the Nassau law and the Suffolk law.)

OEVO is at 420 Northern Blvd., Great Neck, 516-504-9690.

Newsday photo / Erica Marcus