Colorful sushi rolls are popular choices at Akira Steak House...

Colorful sushi rolls are popular choices at Akira Steak House & Sushi Bar in St. James. April 2015 Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti

Akira Steak House & Sushi in St. James comes across like three restaurants in one: hibachi spot, sushi/sashimi bar and a destination for Asian fusion. It's good at each of them.

Occupying a corner of the Green Hill Shopping Center, Akira easily could be missed except for its bold blue sign. Or maybe you'll hear the clanging and related noise from those hibachi tables.

But before you go for the cooked beef, or consider Malaysian curry and pad Thai, see what's going on at the sushi bar.

You may find prettily plated giant clam or live scallop, fine sashimi of mackerel or fluke, and an assortment of sushi rolls that are more harmonious than most. Also: tasty seaweed salad and flavorful soups.

Akira Steak House & Sushi, 556-22 N. Country Rd., St. James; 631-584-9000.

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