Greek seafood catches: three picks

Whole grilled fish is the hallmark of Trata, a summer place that also excels with Greek spreads, grilled octopus, grilled calamari, zucchini and eggplant chips, warm walnut cake and Greek yogurt. Standout Mediterranean swimmers: red fagri, a snapper; lavraki, a bass.

This opulent restaurant prepares satisfying, cheese-stuffed calamari; charcoal-grilled shrimp, octopus and swordfish; and imported fish for two or more, such as red fagri, royal dorado and Dover sole. Also: saganaki, spanakopita, hummus, Greek spreads.

The more modest of these three does well with grilled royal dorado, snapper, swordfish, sardines, tiger shrimp, wild salmon. Also: roasted beets with skordalia, zucchini and eggplant chips, loukaniko sausage, lamb chops, roasted chicken.