Shrimp kebabs are served with grilled vegetables at Greek Xpress...

Shrimp kebabs are served with grilled vegetables at Greek Xpress in Great Neck. Credit: Greek Xpress

Like Odysseus coming home to Ithaca, a Greek restaurant has returned to 37 Great Neck Rd. When it opened on Jan. 10, Greek Xpress was the fourth Greek restaurant to open at this address just west of Middle Neck Road.

It is also the most casual. Mykonos (which opened in 2009 and closed last year) and its predecessors, Santorini My Love and Greek Island Taverna (which opened in 1994), were all modest but full-blown restaurants with table service. Greek Xpress is a fast-casual establishment where you order at the counter and your meal is brought to you.

This is the third Greek Xpress for owner Jimmy Soursos. He opened the first one in Park Slope, Brooklyn, three years ago, a second location in East Rockaway opened in July 2016. “The concept is to fill a need in the marketplace,” he said. “We’re a gyro place, but one with a lot of healthy, vegetarian and gluten-free options.”

Gyros, souvlaki, grilled chicken and other proteins can be ordered in a sandwich ($7.95 to $9.50) or on a platter ($15.95 to $18.50) with a choice of fries, rice, lemon potatoes or (for $1.95 extra) grilled vegetables and a soup or salad. The same choice of sides is offered with dinner specials ($17.95 to $25.95) such as roast chicken, moussaka, shrimp kebabs, salmon or rib steak. There are also salads, appetizers, burgers, smoothies, ice cream, Greek desserts and a kids’ menu.

Greek Xpress is at 37 Great Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-570-6814 and 59 Main St., East Rockaway, 516-593-4949;

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