In the opening passage of "Moby-Dick," when Ishmael feels a...

In the opening passage of "Moby-Dick," when Ishmael feels a "damp, drizzly November" in his soul, Melville figures it's time for his whaler to go to sea. An alternative: New England-style clam chowder with applewood-smoked bacon, as served at H2O Seafood Grill in Smithtown. Credit: Newsday / Rebecca Cooney

After 20 years, the annual Greenport Chowder Contest is trying a radical new approach … well, radical vis a vis chowder competitions.

Instead of two categories, red and white, this Sunday’s contest will feature three, fish chowder, clam chowder and corn chowder.

The Chowder Contest is only one of the events at the three-day Maritime Festival, and all proceeds benefit Greenport’s East End Seaport Museum.

“When I first chaired the chowder contest 19 years ago, we kept it simple with classic Manhattan and New England,” said May Watson, the original contest organizer. “With the infusion of great restaurants and the wineries on the North Fork, it’s time for new and creative ideas.”

The driving force behind the new format is chief judge John Ross, acclaimed “father of North Fork cuisine.” Ross’ fellow judges will include Paula Croteau (owner of The Farmhouse Kitchen cooking school in Southold and co-owner of Croteaux Farm Vineyard), Albie De Kerillis (captain of the Greenport Rescue Squad and a graduate of the Cordon Bleu Culinary Institute in Paris), Mary Morgan (a founder of the East End chapter of Slow Food) and restaurant designer Chris Smith.

The restaurants are vying for $250 and a trophy (the Chowder Cup?) include

Claudio’s, Greenport (last year’s winner)

Southold Fish Market, Southold

Tweeds / Dark Horse Catering, Riverhead

Noah’s, Greenport

Townsend Manor Inn, Greenport

Piping Plover, Southold

A Mano, Mattituck

Butta Cakes, Greenport

Each will be preparing about 25 gallons of chowder to serve the approximately 1,000 people who attend the event, all of whom will have the chance to vote for a “people’s choice” chowder.

The Chowder Contest will be held on Sept. 26, from 1 to 4 p.m., at the Chase parking lot on Main Street, Greenport. The entry fee is $6. For more information or to enter the 2010 Chowder Contest, contact East End Seaport Museum and Marine Foundation 631-477-2100 or e-mail eseaport@verizon.net.

New England clam chowder at H20 in Smithtown (not a competitor)

 
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