Grill 454 opens in Commack

Grill 454 is now up and grilling in the former digs of Charlie Brown’s Steakhouse. Other than a shared emphasis on red meat, there don’t appear to be many similarities between this upmarket newcomer and its chain-style predecessor.

Co-owner Lenny Passarelli also owns two Manhattan restaurants, AJ Maxwell's Steakhouse near Rockefeller Center and Statler Grill near Madison Square Garden. Passarelli, who grew up in Dix Hills, said his father owned the former New Yorker in Rockville Centre for 45 years.

In charge of the kitchen is chef Christopher Hamaty, who cooked at Blackstone Steakhouse in Melville and, most recently, at Jake's Steakhouse in East Meadow. A glance at his menu reveals such choices as jumbo shrimp cocktail ($14), porterhouse for two or more ($42 a person), rib-eye steak ($39), Colorado “lollipop” lamb chops ($32) and red snapper oreganata ($26). Traditional sides, at $8 apiece, include creamed spinach, mashed potatoes and hand-cut fries. And, yes, you can get a burger ($13) at either dinner or lunch. Also on the lunch menu are a pulled pork sandwich ($14) and a chicken Caesar salad ($12).

Grill 454 is at 88 Veterans Memorial Hwy., Commack, 631-499-4454.