Hemisphere packs in enough action to cover more than one-half of the small-plates world.
It's the latest showcase for Jeffery Slade, recently of Madison's in Williston Park and formerly chef at the departed Farmhouse in Greenport.
At this sleek, sharp spot, he's sending out savory dishes such as diver scallops paired with crisp pork belly; Kobe beef sliders with caramelized onions and fontina; and crunchy fried rock shrimp with caramelized pineapple and a coulis of spiced pepper.
There's more caramelizing for dessert, too: banana so treated and accompanied by chocolate in a spring roll.
Hemisphere also has live music and an even livelier kitchen. Worth visiting, and soon.
Hemisphere, 9 S. Park Ave., Bay Shore; 631-647-8526.