Review: Hermana's Kitchen & Cocktails in Lindenhurst

Hermanas’ mission statement declares the restaurant’s "thoughtful approach to our favorite dishes and cocktails, inspired by Hispanic food and drink," and it couldn’t put it better. You won’t find authentic regional Mexican cuisine here, nor will the pupusas transport you to San Salvador. But the flavors are bright, the platings beautiful and, thanks to chef Edwin Corrado, dishes have an internal logic that renders them delicious.

Hiring Corrado was one of a series of great decisions made by the three women who opened Hermanas in 2020. Sara Pesserillo, Lauren Nash and Kristen Lapof aren't biologically related but, during the decades they spent bartending, serving and managing at Long Island bars and restaurants, they forged a strong bond honored by choosing the name Hermanas ("sisters" in Spanish) for their own place.

The dining room evinces a whimsical touch, with mismatched white chairs, ornate gilded (but empty) picture frames and a bright tiled bar. Equally congenial is the service: The team is knowledgeable, friendly, efficient and seems genuinely happy to be working here. And who wouldn’t be happy showing up at the table with some of Long Island’s best tacos? They range from traditional (braised pork) to retro (hard shell tortilla with ground beef) to innovative (try the cauliflower, no seriously).

Pupusas, ceviche, empanadas, Cuban sandwiches and carne asada do Latin America proud, but the kitchen is equally comfortable with such fusion creations as mussels with Cajun cream sauce and chicharron (a special), perfectly executed salads and DIY bowls that start with rice, pink beans and arugula and accommodate all manner of meat, vegetable, cheese and condiment. At the bar, drinks are every bit as well conceived and executed.

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