Tuna pizza at Lou Joe   in Roslyn Heights.

Tuna pizza at Lou Joe in Roslyn Heights. Credit: Newsday / Marjorie Robins

Lou Joe, an Asian restaurant that takes in “modern Japanese,” has opened in Roslyn Heights, just south of the Long Island Expressway on Willis Avenue.

It moves into the former address of another eclectic Asian spot, Opera House, which had a run of about five years. For years before that, it had been the Chinese restaurant To Fu.

The newcomer offers traditional sushi, sushi rolls and a colorful “tuna pizza” ($14). The menu also features Thai and Chinese cuisines and dishes where their borders cross.

Expect a few items best categorized simply by naming them. Among them are lobster in saffron reduction and foie gras with an Asian-style vinaigrette. Shrimp shumai and pork gyoza, chicken-lettuce wraps and General Tso’s chicken, and Thai curries with chicken, steak or shrimp underscore the more familiar fare. A shoutout to the restaurant’s steamed Chilean sea bass.

Expect dinner in the $20-$50 range; less expensive at lunch and from the a la carte nigirizushi selections.

Lou Joe, 255 Willis Ave., Roslyn Heights, 516-484-7456

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