Jericho: Seems like old times at Angelino's

Trendless and fad-free, Angelino's in Jericho has been sending out traditional Italian-American favorites since the tall ships sailed in for the Bicentennial and "Rocky" ko'd "Network," "Taxi Driver" and "All the President's Men."

The  old-fashioned spot still does, to eat-in or take-out. Service is friendly and prices are, too.

Try the husky, bracing cannelloni stuffed with beef and spinach in marinara sauce, under a mantle of melted mozzarella. It easily could feed two. Or pick steak alla pizzaiola, a tender shell steak sauced with flair. Equally good: red snapper alla Livornese. Angelino's also prepares respectable brick-oven pizzas, Greek and Caesar salads, lasagna, linguine puttanesca and chicken Parmigiana. Lots of hero sandwiches. You can recite the menu before you see it.

Angelino's is at 1 Jericho Turnpike and Aintree Road; 516-997-7333.

Mozzarella is the cheese of choice at Angelino's.