K.Pacho in New Hyde Park: First bites
Frito pie at K.Pacho Cocina & Tequila in New Hyde Park. (April 2012) Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti
K.Pacho Cocina and Tequila is up and running in the former home of Two Steak & Sushi Den. The owners are the same. The chef is the same.
The restaurant is not.
Coming across like a send-up of dining out Mexican, the year's most extreme makeover could reverse the placement of cocina and tequila to be more accurate. You may need a few drinks to revel in the place, which is so devoted to creating a party atmosphere and fun-fun-fun that the food seems secondary.
Not that every restaurant has to be as ambitious as Two was. Besides, K.Pacho does attract a crowd, which Two eventually didn't. But some of the results still are pretty sad.
Consider the Frito pie, wherein chili, cheese, beans and more are set on an open bag of, yes, Fritos. Even a Frito devotee would wince over the limp result.
Fish tacos resemble fish-without-chips and are irreparably bland. Pork loin: overcooked. And the "Mexican frozen hot chocolate" dessert tastes liked nearly melted granita, served in an oversize martini glass.
At least the churros are good.
Likewise, Mexican chicken wings; and queso fundido. And, yes, the tequilas and the beers.Those brews include Dos Equis.
In the dining room is a very large image of Jonathan Goldsmith, the actor who portrays "the most interesting man in the world" in the clever ads for the Mexican beer. ("Sharks have a week dedicated to him..." "In museums, he's allowed to touch the art...")
"Stay thirsty, my friends," he says.
Unless things improve here, you'll stay hungry, too.
K.Pacho Cocina and Tequila, 1270 Union Tpke., New Hyde Park; 516-358-2222.
The Frito pie.
