Kazan, Port Washington: First bites
The "Navruz" salad at Kazan in Port Washington virtually pops on the palate. (Nov., 2012) Credit: Newsday Joan Reminick
The space, under the same ownership as its predecessor, Innuendo, is strikingly attractive, its walls hung with rich Oriental rugs. Suspended from the ceiling is a complex wood sculpture of interlocking cubes, a holdover the prior incarnation. Somehow, it works. Leather upholstered seating is way more plush than one would expect at a place with such moderate prices.
But it was the food that really impressed. One standout: the hearty, vibrant soup called logmahn, filled with bright vegetables, beef and noodles ($7). Another winner: the “Navruz” salad of radishes, cucumbers, scallions and dill in a creamy dressing ($7), a dish that virtually pops on the palate. A salmon kebab ($7) featured light, crisp chunks of fish that were moist and spicy-sweet on the inside. A lush house-made napoleon ($7), similar to an icebox cake, deserved better than the dull aerosol whipped cream sharing the plate.
