La Famiglia

What's less than satisfying is the inevitable weekend wait for a table (La Famiglia doesn't take reservations for fewer than eight) and a headache-inducing din that renders communication nearly impossible. On one occasion, our waiter brought us a salad instead of the calamari we had ordered. "I thought you said tre colore," he told us and whisked the salad away.

A few minutes later, the ringlets of squid arrived, piping hot and tender, if not super-crisp, served with a lively marinara. Chopped salad turned out to be mostly iceberg lettuce that lacked excitement. A "torta" special, layering crepes, grilled vegetables, mozzarella and prosciutto, was attractive and delicious, served with balsamic- grilled eggplant wrapped around ham, mozzarella and roasted red peppers. I really enjoyed the zuppa di clams, fresh mollusks bathed in a garlicky white wine broth, but the serving was surprisingly small. We learned from our waiter that seafood items are portioned for only one. Keep that in mind, since it's not noted on the menu.

Pastas are real crowd-pleasers. Linguine with white clam sauce features big pieces of tender clams and just the right amount of garlic and oil. Rigatoni amatriciana boasts a lusty smoked bacon and tomato sauce. Fettuccine Bolognese is robust and right. Penne alla vodka is creamy and savory, the kind of food that's hard to stop eating.

You won't go wrong, either, with the eggplant Parmigiana, a lush meld of bright sauce, creamy cheese and mellow fried eggplant. Chicken scarpariello stars bone-in, skin-on pieces of poultry in a zesty garlic-intense brown sauce. For dessert, your best bet is the rich chocolate mousse cake, tartufo or sorbet. Unless you're partial to rum-flavored pastry, forego the Italian cheesecake and the raspberry almond cake. Service here needs work. On our second visit, midway through entrees, our waiter came by to take orders for drink refills. By the time he had brought them, some 15 minutes later, we had finished eating. "Sorry," he said and left the drinks, for which we were charged. Wait staff should be schooled to avoid such mishaps. Still, La Famiglia is new, and doubtless many of its rough edges will be smoothed away.

Go for lunch, and you'll find the restaurant a more tranquil place. At dinner, this is not the spot to choose for a romantic date. But if you're willing to give up quiet conversation for lots of good food, then pack the kids into the minivan and prepare to party on pasta.

-- Joan Reminick