A "skinny" turkey burger at Landmark Diner in Roslyn in...

A "skinny" turkey burger at Landmark Diner in Roslyn in July 2014 Credit: Newsday / Joan Reminick

Back in 2009, when the Landmark Diner in Roslyn moved a few yards east of its original location to spiffy new double-decker digs, the kitchen was under the aegis of chef Chris Palmer, whose pared-down menu was executed with care and élan.

Palmer has been gone from the diner for more than a year. During a recent brunch visit, the food tasted pretty much like typical diner fare from just about anywhere on Long Island. A “forest” mushroom omelet ($9.75) was surprisingly dry; another omelet, featuring house-made tomato “ranchero” sauce ($8.95), was every bit as boring as it would have been if made with salsa from a jar. Then, there was a “skinny” burger ($8.95) — i.e., a turkey burger with Alpine Lace cheese on a 90-calorie whole-wheat “skinny bun.” I had no problem with the bun or better-than-average tomatoes, but I was let down by the dry, under-seasoned turkey patty.

And let down too by a Long Island diner scene largely unable to sustain culinary aspirations.

Landmark Diner is at 1027 Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-304-5387, theoriginallandmarkdiner.com