Lawson Pub in Oceanside.

Lawson Pub in Oceanside. Credit: Gaby Chiha

After a brief stint as Fiamma, Lawson Pub has returned to its original name, offering the food that goes with it.

Joseph Bonacore's casual restaurant emphasizes big flavors and big portions, whether you're here for very good rice balls packed with bacon and caramelized onions, or a grilled beet salad with arugula, pistachios and ricotta salata.

He also sends out a juicy Black Angus burger, with Cheddar and bacon, and as a final gilding, lobster salad on top. The house's pork shank is a generous, tender, satisfying main course.

After this stuff, you may lean toward restraint at dessert and go for the mini-ice cream cones.

Lawson Pub, 3112 Lawson Blvd., Oceanside; 516-307-8753.