Legacy Room opens in Patchogue

Patchogue boasts one of Long Island’s densest dining (and drinking) strips, bounded by Blue Point Brewery in the west, Lola’s Southern Cuisine less than a mile east. But head down South Ocean Avenue almost to the water and, on an otherwise residential block, you’ll find Legacy Room, whose menu blends innovation with elegance.

Chef Mike Artist, formerly of Road Trip in Bay Shore, evinces an of-the-moment regard for meat-free dishes with starters such as expertly roasted carrots with whipped goat cheese and pomegranate tajin; watermelon radish salad with frisee, cranberries, mandarin oranges and pecans; chickpea panisse (fries) stacked a la Jenga and served with smoked-paprika aioli; and a main dish based on a head of cauliflower on a bed of whipped lemon tahini garnished with green-pepper romesco.

But when he turns his hand to meat, the results either have an old-school feel — beef tartare canapes, beef Wellington with herbed potato puree — or a playful twist: Witness the peanut-butter-bourbon short rib with grape-jelly gastrique or duck breast with a Creamsicle reduction and roasted turnips. He also makes an excellent gnocchi with pesto. Starters range from $14 to $18, pastas from $28 to $33, mains from $29 to $42 (except for the beef Wellington which is $65). The menu is the same for lunch and dinner but the chef offers daily sandwich specials at lunch.

The restaurant replaces 10-year-old South Ocean Grill. Partner Jean Pierre said "The Grill had a casual cafe vibe; with Legacy Room, we wanted to make it more upscale."

Pierre had worked at South Ocean Grill for a few years before becoming part of a team that relaunched it, last year, as the Grill on South Ocean, a concept that he said "kept the most popular menu items and upgraded the room."

But, on Jan. 2, Pierre and partners John Paul Aceto and Melissa and Jesse Roenbeck introduced a new name, concept and decor. "The No. 1 complaint I used to hear was, ‘There’s not enough space,’ " he said. Now the dining room features widely spaced tables and a couple of sofas, "like a high-end living room."

"So many restaurant menus mirror each other," he noted, "we wanted to showcase our chef, his energy and his creativity."

Legacy Room, 567 S. Ocean Ave., Patchogue, 631-730-7070, Instagram: @legacyroom_formerly_thegrill/. Open Tuesday to Thursday noon to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday noon to 10 p.m., Sunday noon to 8 p.m.