Long Island restaurants: New reviews

In this week’s Newsday, Joan Reminick follows the dulcet tones of chef-operatic-tenor Richard Desmond to his new gig at Fargiano’s Pizza & Pasta in East Islip. The decor of the pizzeria is modest, but Desmond hits the high notes with a fragrant eggplant-basil bisque, delectable meat lasagna, made with hand-rolled pasta and a “pumpkin tiramisu with drifts of freshly whipped cream that is boozy, airy and autumnal.”

Peter Gianotti visits the newly expanded Swallow, whose small plates, courtesy of chef-owner James Tchinnis and executive chef Paul Miranda, “provide a lively show” next door to The Paramount. “More than doubled in size this year, with ambitions multiplied many times over, it's one of the sharpest restaurants in downtown Huntington.” Winners include the grilled baby octopus, soy-braised short ribs, grilled skirt steak and a savory shrimp po’boy.