Manhasset: L.I.'s empress of traditional Chinese

The search for good Chinese food on Long Island is harder than it should be. It's as if fast-and-routine takeout has taken over. That's why Pearl East remains a little oasis.

Yes, the restaurant has added pad Thai and sushi to the choices, and these Asian forays generally are worth sampling. But the familiar and traditional Chinese fare prepared with care still is what makes Pearl East a destination.  The dining room also has old-fashioned appeal — compared with many, it's almost regal. The friendly, efficient service is a plus, too.

You'll find fine, pan-seared pork pot stickers and even better eggplant in garlic sauce; sizable grilled shrimp and lobster Cantonese seasoned with nostalgia;  tender orange chicken and orange beef, each with just enough heat.

And on weekend nights, be prepared for a wait.

Pearl East, 1191 Northern Blvd., Manhasset; 516-365-9898.

Pre-Cantonese