Maureen & Daughters Kitchen

In a sprawling Victorian house with a wraparound dining porch and cow-themed decor, Maureen Dernbach (assisted by her daughters and son) serves what many would agree are the best breakfasts in Suffolk County. Lunches are swell, too.

It's hard to beat her baked oatmeal, a virtual hot oatmeal cookie-in-a-bowl, studded with dried cranberries and nuts, accompanied by a pitcher of cold milk. Pancakes are superior - large but light-textured. Try them with pears, perfumed with just a hint of cinnamon, or with oranges, studded with pieces of grated peel. Stuffed raspberry French toast is a lot to handle - fruit compote slathered between two slices of battered bread. No problem for the stalwarts who come to Maureen's daily.

At lunch, sandwiches are overstuffed and delicious. Grilled meat loaf and mozzarella is a treat, as is the chicken, cranberry and walnuts salad.

You'll probably be too full for dessert (I've never been able to manage it), but the crumb cake looks awfully good.

Expect to wait for your table. And keep in mind that the restaurant accepts cash only. It's well spent.