A new look and a new menu. That's what Maxxels promised when it reopened on Oct. 9 after a four-day renovation. There’s also a new motto—Simple. Fresh. Affordable. Those words adorn the orange awning, the menu and the employees' shirts.

Menu prices have come down a few dollars. Of the 22 regular main courses, only eight cost more than $20; eight are $18 and under. And there is a three-course prix-fixe for $24, a two-course prix-fixe for $20. The menu is still all over the map—New American, Italian, classic bistro, Asian—but there seems to be a little less refinement and experimentation since Phil Iannuccilli was succeeded by his sous-chef, Bolivar Cabrara.  

A “chopped country salad” of iceberg, green beans, beets, corn, mushrooms, blue cheese and bacon was balanced and tasty—if a bit on the sweet side (a squirt of lemon would have helped). Remember my salad rule: Everything tastes better chopped.

Steamed pork dumplings in chile-garlic oil, peanut sauce and soy ketchup were very good. Ditto linguine in a red seafood sauce. I liked my braised short ribs, but would have preferred them on a bed of soft polenta instead of the batons of fried polenta. Apple strudel was OK.

As for the new look, the dark-wood chairs have been replaced by those ubiquitous wicker “bistro” chairs, so they no longer match the dark-wood tables. Woven place mats have given way to white paper ones with a gold Greek-key border—you know, diner mats. Otherwise, the restaurant looks pretty much like it always did—which is pretty good: striped banquettes, lots of bright-orange accents, bold color photographs. To me the place always looked simple, fresh and affordable.

What I like best about Maxxels is its general aura of grown-up competence. You relax as soon as you walk in the door: it’s neat and clean, service is efficient and professional, things are spelled correctly.When he reviewed Maxxels in April, 2007, Newsday's Peter Gianotti gave it two stars and called it “a beacon for refined, confident new American cooking, with snappy side trips.” No big changes here.

Maxxels is at 526 Jericho Tpke., Mineola, 516-294-3604.

 
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