Outrageously good pasta, serious omakase, a standout chicken Parm hero ... Newsday's food team eats nearly every meal out on Long Island all year long. Here are the dishes that left a lasting impression this year:

ERICA MARCUS:

Spinach fettuccine with oysters and guanciale at 18 Bay, Jamesport

Back when 18 Bay was on Shelter Island and offered only a four-course tasting menu, a meal there demanded a degree of forethought and commitment that made it a very occasional splurge. In October, chef-owners Adam Kopels and Elizabeth Ronzetti reopened their restaurant in the old Dimon Estate in Jamesport and I was able to realize a long-cherished dream of sitting at the bar and enjoying nothing more than a bowl of their pasta and a glass of wine. I raised my glass of Barbera d’Alba to this tender spinach fettuccine with fat oysters, guanciale and bread crumbs and considered myself very lucky, indeed. More info: 370 Manor Lane, Jamesport, 631-809-3542, 18bayrestaurant.com

Pane rustico bread at King Umberto, Elmont

Pane rustico bread at King Umberto in Elmont.

Ever since 2018, when he added his sourdough "Metro" pie (and landed on Newsday’s Best Pizza list), Giovanni Cesarano, partner-pizzaiolo at King Umberto, has broadened his efforts to encompass more of the Italian bread repertoire. Alongside Luca Cascella, a graduate of Italy’s prestigious ALMA International School of Italian Cooking near Parma, a corner of King Umberto’s vast kitchen is turning into a proper panetteria. All heros at the pizzeria are made on homemade rolls, and the restaurant's bread basket features sourdough focaccia plus a superlative pane rustico that's one of the best sourdough loaves available on Long Island. (It is sometimes available for purchase at the pizzeria). More info: 1343 Hempstead Tpke., Elmont, 516-352-8391, kingumberto.com

Rigatoni carbonara at Pastaru Pastificio, Mineola

Value-priced homemade pasta shops may be the trend of the year (see also: Pasta Joint in Huntington, Pasta Project in Farmingdale, Perfect Pasta & Gelato in Bay Shore) but Pastaru Pastificio has two aces up its sleeve: Owner Simone Pulieri and chef Emanuel Concas are both Italians who adhere to a very high native standard. They try to steer diners to tried-and-true combinations — fettuccine with Bolognese, spaghetti or rigatoni with carbonara, gnocchi with pesto — and to train them to enjoy pasta that is not drowning in sauce. Nowhere are their efforts more successful than in the rigatoni carbonara, made only with guanciale (cured pig jowl), Pecorino Romano and Parmesan, egg yolks and lots of black pepper. More info: 133 Mineola Blvd., Mineola, 646-871-0154, pastarupasta.com

Pastries at Charlie’s Bakery, Northport

A lemon-raspberry bar, left, and creative takes on opera cake at Charlie's Bakery in Northport.

One of the best things I ate this year: Everything I ate at Charlie’s Bakery, which opened in February in the Fort Salonga strip mall anchored by the IGA. Baker-owner Casey Sandler — the eponymous Charlie is his Brussels Griffon pooch — has a thing for opera cake, an Old World confection whose layers consist of coffee-soaked almond sponge, coffee buttercream, chocolate ganache and chocolate glaze. His classic version also inspired one with matcha cake and strawberry mousse, another with Earl Grey-scented cake sandwiching tiers of blueberry and lemon mousse. Citrus is a theme that runs right through meringue-squiggled lemon bars whose curd hides a thin layer of raspberry jam. More info: 10 Fort Salonga Rd., Northport, 631-684-2141, charliethebaker.com

Egg sandwich at Roto, Bay Shore

After a nearly two-year absence, Brock Ferraro and Jack Monahan are back in action with their new Roto All Day Cafe, which opened in July. At 1,600 square feet, new Roto is about 10 times bigger than old Roto and has a full bar. One thing that, mercifully, has not changed is one of Long Island’s best breakfast sandwiches. Modestly named "breakfast sandwich," it consists of a puffy disk of soufflé egg that fits neatly onto a grilled milk-bread bun along with house-made pork sausage, house-made zhug (a spicy Middle Eastern green sauce) and Cooper Sharp Cheddar. More info: 101 Fourth Ave., Bay Shore, 934-500-5580, rotoallday.com

'Embarazada' oysters at Little Creek, Greenport

Oysters "embarazada" at Little Creek Oysters in Greenport.

It’s been a year since Little Creek Oysters opened in bigger (and temperature-controlled!) premises a few blocks from its original, windswept Greenport bait shack. It now boasts a 16-seat communal table, a 17-seat bar, an upstairs, a "hangout" room that accommodates 24 — plus a 30-seat backyard. The menu has expanded too, with hot items ranging from salt-boiled new potatoes and a French onion grilled cheese sandwich on a pressed baguette. But, at its heart, Little Creek is still an oyster bar, generally offering three or four different Peconic Bay oysters every day. But hey, why not gild the lily? I could not get enough of the "embarazada" oysters, "pregnant" with hamachi sashimi, ponzu, hot sauce and tobiko. More info: 211 Carpenter St., Greenport, littlecreekoysters.com

Dogfish amandine at Minnow at the Galley Ho, New Suffolk

I’ve been whining about the lack of local fish on Long Island menus for a few decades now, but I was (temporarily) silenced this summer when I motored out into Cutchogue Harbor to the enormous "pound trap" that Minnow at the Galley Ho maintains a few minutes (by boat) from its waterside perch. We harvested fluke, porgies and blowfish and, most of all, dogfish (aka sand shark), a fish I’d never knowingly had. All of these treasures were delivered to Minnow’s kitchen, where the fish were swiftly butchered and put to delicious use. In dogfish amandine wherein the fillets are dredged in a coating of crushed almonds and then fried to a golden crisp. When dogfish isn’t available, weakfish and blackfish benefit from the same treatment. Note: Minnow won’t reopen until next spring. More info: 650 First St., 631-734-8474, minnowrestaurant.com

MELISSA AZOFEIFA:

Rooh’s BBQ Smoked Meat and Steakhouse

Rooh’s BBQ Smoked Meat and Steakhouse in West Hempstead is more than a delicious meal — dinner there is an experience. All your senses are in for a treat as they have daily fire shows to dazzle guests. For those wanting a luxurious option, their smoked Wagyu brisket ($44.99) or Wagyu tomahawk encrusted with edible gold leaf ($199) is a must-try. The meat is juicy, tender, smoky and falls right off the bone. Other options include the hot mezze platter ($34.99) that includes two Middle Eastern sambousek (meat-filled pastries similar to empanadas) with Turkish sausages and fried kebabs. More Info: 495 Hempstead Tpke., #499, West Hempstead, 516-280-2896, roohsbbqsmokedmeatsteakhouse.com.

MARIE ELENA MARTINEZ:

Ceviche at Urubamba Pisco Bar, Huntington

Classic ceviche at Urubamba in Huntington.

In a sea of Long Island Peruvian ceviches, this one stands out. Two versions are offered at one of Newsday’s Best New Restaurants this year, a classic ceviche ($20) and a ceviche mixto ($22). The fish is "cooked" by the acidic citrus juice — in this case, lime — in which it marinates, producing what’s known in Spanish as "leche de tigre" or tiger’s milk. Mixed with standard ingredients, including red onion, cilantro, crunchy cancha (corn nuts), sweet potatoes and toothy maize, or choclo, it has a nice kick, plus the delicate pureed sweet potato florets are an elegant touch. More info: 286 New York Ave., Huntington, 718-799-1392, urubambali.com

Chicken Milanese at Copper Beech by the Sea, Bellport

Copper Beech’s chicken Milanese ($18/half pound) is a protein-seeker's dream. The ultimate grab-and-go item, the chicken cutlet gets star treatment at Bellport’s swankiest general store. These bad boys are the stuff of legend, made with panko-breaded chicken breast, pounded just right, cooked in olive oil with Parmesan and lemon. It delivers the perfect level of crunch, umami, and ahem, nutrition for your breakfast, lunch, snack, dinner and post-workout needs. While you're waiting, check out gorgeous home accents, from serving plates to wall art to linens. More info: 133 South Country Rd., Bellport, 631-286-0202, copperbeechbythesea.com 

Bigeye tuna tarts at Okaru, Roslyn

Bigeye tuna tarts at Okaru.

If you lived in Manhattan during the '90s, there’s a good chance you’ve been to BondSt, the downtown hot spot that garnered a cult following for its pillowy spicy tuna rolls, miso -glazed sea bass skewers and saketinis. Chef Marc Spitzer, a Plainview native, opened a spot in Roslyn that quickly landed on Newsday's Best New Restaurants list. While there isn’t a miss on the menu, the tuna tarts ($29), paper-thin sheets of raw tuna draped over crisp gyoza wrappers, brushed with a creamy, truffled ponzu and crowned with microgreens including shiso and cilantro, set the tone. There’s a reason they dot every table; trust the process. More info: 1401 Old Northern Blvd., Roslyn, 516-621-3300, okaruroslyn.com

Chicken Parm hero at Village Hero, Syosset

The perfect hero is a thing of beauty, be it a cold Italian sub or a hot meatball Parm. The return of Village Heros in Syosset, now just across from where it all began in 1972, means that the killer chicken Parms of my youth are back. My personal Tuesday night special, picked up hot and saucy, is a fresh, soft hero stuffed with tender, breaded chicken cutlets, smothered in a tasty tomato sauce and loaded with shredded mozzarella, delivering the ultimate cheese pull. They run $11.25 for a junior size and $20.75 for a large. Also recommended with equal enthusiasm: The meatball Parm hero. More info: 575 Underhill Blvd., Syosset, 516-716-4376

Roasted cauliflower at Lola, Great Neck

Tahini cauliflower at Lola in Great Neck.

With vegetables, the simplest preparations often pack the most punch. Such is true for Mediterranean mainstay Lola’s roasted cauliflower ($12), a mere five ingredients — cauliflower, blistered red peppers, lemon, tahini, scallion — deliver one of the most pleasing bites of the year. The caramelized cauliflower melts down as it roasts, then, tossed in lemon, tahini and scallion sauce, it coalesces into a fulfilling, hearty dish. It’s earthy from the tahini, balanced by the acidity of the lemon juice, and lit by the subtle fire of the red peppers. Forget hummus, scoop this into Lola’s fresh, fluffy pitas and have yourself a snack. More info: 113a Middle Neck Rd., Great Neck, 516-466-5666, restaurantlola.com

Omakase at Two Thirty Six, Syosset

A bottarga, roe and Jidori egg course at Two Thirty Six.

At this spot, it’s the whole experience — from Japanese whiskey lounge to jewel box coursing in the discrete back omakase bar — that merits highlight. Start at the lush front bar — blue-velvet chairs, moody table lighting, clubby wood paneling — for a cocktail before slipping behind a speakeasy bookcase wall to uni served in seaweed, like a tiny taco from Hokkaido to otoro topped with gold leaf, scallops dusted with Meyer lemon zest, or, most memorably, a Jidori egg, soft and gooey, topped with a generous shaving of bottarga, and cured mullet fish roe. ($231 for multicourse tasting). More info: 236 W. Jericho Tpke., Syosset, 646-352-0051, 236syosset.com

Cinnamon roll from Duck Island Bread Co., Huntington

My daughter swooned over this massive roll with thick, creamy frosting and rich, cinnamon flavor in my quest to find Long Island's best cinnamon rolls. The perfect celebration of festive fall flavors and big as her 7-year-old head, the airy and light rolled dough sits under a snowy white, mild sugar glaze, neither too sweet nor too thick ($5). Because it’s lighter than it looks, be advised: You will be able to eat more than you think. And should, it's the holiday season, after all. More info: 631-629-4848, duckislandbreadcompany.com.

Pistachio affogato at Taglio, Massapequa Park

Taglio in Massapequa Park may be known for its Roman-style pizza — the potato rosemary stops traffic — but for me, it's their Kimbo Crema, a creamy coffee treat from Caffe Kimbo, an Italian roaster, that keeps me up at night. Gelato-like soft serve comes in espresso, Nutella and pistachio flavors, one better than the next. Want an extra espresso boost with your frozen indulgence? The nutty pistachio affogato ($8) is my breakfast and lunch on random Tuesday mornings when the mood strikes. More info: 113 Front St., Massapequa Park, 516-765-2000, taglioromanpizza.com

ANDI BERLIN:

Jerk chicken from Jerk on the Water, Freeport

Jerk chicken is rubbed in spice and grilled to order at Jerk on the Water.

I tried nearly a dozen spots for Newsday's best jerk chicken list, and this Nautical Mile operation blew the competition out of the water. On a blistering cold day, the takeout spot still managed to warm my belly with its fiery rub that included allspice and Scotch bonnet pepper. Fresh from the grill, the chicken ($15) was incredibly juicy, and some of the crevices had extra bits of rub, which clung to the crispy char. I ate it from a steamy paper box, right there next to the canal. It was one of the most rewarding food experiences I've had on Long Island, ever. More info: 165 Woodcleft Ave., Freeport, 516-623-2612, jerkonthewater.com

Feijoada black bean stew from Brazico, Amityville

Long Island's already fallen in love with Brazilian barbecue, but homestyle dishes like feijoada deserve more recognition — especially the one at Brazico. Served in a mini cast-iron pot, the slow-cooked black bean stew ($28) is loaded with chunky pork and sausage. Spoon some of the hearty black beans over your side of rice, then sprinkle a pinch of farofa, a toasted cassava flour that looks like powdery pork rinds and tastes of nutty grains. The dish also comes with garlicky collard greens, which are only slightly cooked so they remain snappy and bitter. An unsung masterpiece. More info: 217 Broadway, Amityville, 631-464-4323

Malai chicken from Vintage Mirchi, Hicksville

Chicken malai tikka is the dish to order at Vintage Mirchi in Hicksville.

This neighborhood spot opened around the corner from Mithaas last year, and it quickly stole the spotlight with its explosive, pummeling curries. Mirchi means chili pepper in Hindi, and the chefs don't shy away from it in Northern Indian dishes like chunky saag paneer, which had a potent masala backbone. Surprisingly, a creamy chicken curry ($14.99) was the highlight in an evening of bangers. It came to the table sizzling in a cast-iron pan, fajitas-style. Tender chicken thighs were bathed in a rich elixir so mesmerizing, it begged to be scraped from the bottom of the plate. More info: 217 Bethpage Rd., #24, Hicksville, 516-580-2601

Taro gnocchi from Plado Tasting Bar, Glen Cove

This chic, chef-driven bistro gives Italian classics an international spin. Sitting at the bar one afternoon during happy hour, I sampled the gnocchi ($20) and it made me want to order everything on the menu. Rather than potatoes, the dough balls are made with taro root, a starchy tuber more common in Asian cuisine, but totally stunning in this context. When cooked, the taro lends an ever-so-slight purplish hue, although that's obscured by a heavenly blanket of truffled cream sauce. Oyster mushrooms add a savory bounce to the dish. It was brilliant, but I'm also adding extra points for the Aperol spritz. More info: 274 Glen St., Glen Cove, 516-277-1288, pladohospitality.com

Rice flour pupusa from Pupusas City, Middle Island

Is it possible to have a destination pupusa? The Salvadoran griddle cakes are practically everywhere, and most always amazing. But this tiny shop owned by Iris Viera made me a pupusa worth traveling for. Frijoles con queso, or bean and cheese, has always been my favorite as it provides the optimal texture of gooey richness ($8 for two). The rice flour made it slightly lighter than the corn variety, so your taste buds could focus on the savory beans. And those crispy grill marks, oof. I also enjoyed the carroty curtido slaw on the side, as well as the tomatoey salsa roja, which was thicker and more substantial than usual. More info: 833 Middle Country Rd., Middle Island, 631-448-8907, pupusascity.com

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