Tagliatelle with duck ragout is served at Mirabelle in Stony...

Tagliatelle with duck ragout is served at Mirabelle in Stony Brook. (Nov. 2013) Credit: Newsday / Peter Gianotti

When Guy Reuge announced that his four-star restaurant, Mirabelle, would switch to a more spontaneous, farm-to-table, fixed-price approach, devotees understandably wondered why.

They shouldn't be concerned. Mirabelle remains a plum.

Reuge's menus now change daily, with perhaps a half-dozen choices for each course. Some dishes may stay on for a few days. And the two-course "duck Mirabelle," with seared breast and confit of leg, still is the cornerstone.

His menus are $39 for two courses and $50 for three, with supplements. Tasting menus are $92 and, with wine, $150.

Among the winners on a recent night: vibrant fish soup, with hake, flounder, shrimp and rouille on a baguette for a hint of bouillabaisse; fluke steak with saffron potatoes and herb veloute; tagliatelle with duck ragout; and the big duck, this time, tender breast  with sauerkraut and bacon, shiitake mushrooms and cranberry mustard, followed by the confit, with a wedge of sweet potato-walnut cake and date sauce. The souffle: apple and Calvados.

All is well.

Mirabelle, 150 Main St. (Three Village Inn), Stony Brook; 631-751-0555.

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