Morrison's, a new gastropub from restaurateur Art Bloom, is a  buoyant, high-decibel  eatery that takes over the address previously occupied by Red Fish. Bloom runs it with his daughter and son-in-law,  Shelby and Harry Poole.

Early on, it's good for snacks like corn dogs and fried pickles, which bring a little Iowa State Fair to Nassau County. The "farmhouse grilled cheese" is better, with goat cheese and muenster, slab bacon and tomato, on milk bread. The cheeseburger also tastes fine.

Bourbon Street jambalaya heats things up and is a top main course. But the star of prime-rib night, while juicy, could fit into a sandwich. It's $25. On Saturday, one of the desserts was the bluberry crumb pie from Briermere Farms, an impeccable source.

Figure $18 to $25 for main courses; $12 to $16 for sandwiches; $4 to $12 for those tasty snacks.

Bloom also operates Jackson's in Commack.

Morrison's, 430 Woodbury Rd., Plainview; 516-932-8460.

Newsday LogoYour Island. Your Community. Your News.Digital AccessOnly 25¢for 5 months