Oku opens in Huntington

Huntington is becoming a prolific sushi town. On the heels of Enso No Sato’s debut in March comes the latest modern Japanese experience in the buzzy village: Oku, a sleek and cozy spot on Main Street.

Translating to "the innermost place," Oku is awash in natural colors that take inspiration from the sea — pale wasabi green linens offset vibrant turquoise blue plating, all set against natural wood walls lined with deep hunter leather banquettes and a sushi bar beyond.

The robust menu is filled with both familiar classics and more modern twists. Hot starters range from miso soup ($6), edamame ($8), and shishito peppers ($14) to Hokkaido shrimp shumai ($14), pork or vegetable gyoza ($11), and chicken kaarage ($17).

There’s a selection of avocado or fish-topped crispy rice ($17, $22), plus some signature cold plates, including an oyster trio with avocado mousse and a ponzu mignonette ($20), spicy tuna cones ($20), rounded out by scallop carpaccio ($25) and a steak tartare ($27). Nigiri, sashimi, and hand rolls abound, as well as a selection of traditionally simple and gussied up cut rolls.

The namesake Oku roll is one such over-the-top example ($25) stuffed with bluefin tuna, yellowtail, salmon and cucumber, and topped with a charred yuzu glaze and serrano pepper. There are hot kitchen entrees, from miso blackened cod ($38) to beef fried rice ($26).

The owner and executive chef is Jeff Lee, a 20-year veteran of Japanese cuisine, with tenure at New York City’s Nobu and Sushi Samba restaurants. He’s hands-on and present, manning the sushi bar, visiting tables and checking to see that each order is executed to expectation. After a decade in Dubai, he returned to New York to open Oku. "We were drawn to Huntington because of its vibrant dining community," said Lee’s wife and partner, Kim. "We wanted to create a neighborhood restaurant that people would want to come back to, not just a place they visit once."

The couple, Great Neck residents, hope to settle closer to Huntington, but for now, they are happy with the reception they’ve received thus far; the restaurant was packed on a recent Saturday evening, not a seat available by 6 p.m.

If you’re looking for omakase, Oku has plans to add this experience to its offerings soon. "We need the right chef and staff that can be dedicated," Kim said. "Jeff wants to make sure everything is exactly how he wants it be before we launch that part of the menu."

Oku, 255 Main St., Huntington, 631-223-0303, okudining.com; Open Tuesday through Thursday 5 to 9:30 p.m., Friday 5 to 10:30 p.m., Saturday noon to 10:30 p.m., and Sunday noon to 9:30 p.m.

By Marie Elena Martinez

marieelena.martinez@newsday.com

A global freelancer who has checked her suitcase to raise her young daughter on her native Long Island, Marie Elena will always make time for good mezcal, even better tacos and killer conversation. Preferably, in a corner bar seat. She can be found on Instagram at @mariesworldeats.