Ristorante BeSi, East Meadow.  (April 24, 2010)

Ristorante BeSi, East Meadow. (April 24, 2010) Credit: Bruce Gilbert

Bringing zesty seafood, cooked and raw, to Hempstead Turnpike is Long Fin. It swims into the space vacated by Ristorante BeSi.

Long Fin combines Asian and American approaches under chef Dave Salony, who runs the kitchens for the Singh Hospitality Group. The group's restaurants include Thom Thom in Wantagh, Singleton's Seafood Shack in Massapequa and The Woodlands in Woodbury.

You'll find tasty crab sliders and a fried-oyster po'boy; Asian-seasoned Buffalo-style shrimp, complete with blue-cheese dip; Manhattan clam chowder and Louisiana-style crab gumbo; fish-and-chips and a lobster bake; plus paella, cioppino and the assorted fishes of the day prepared in a quintet of different sauces and methods. The sushi also is commendable. For the turf crowd: baby back ribs, lemon-basil chicken, grilled sirloin and filet mignon with Bearnaise sauce.

Long Fin, 2367 Hempstead Tpke., East Meadow; 516-605-2366.

Exit BeSi, enter Long Fin ...