Sauteed duck with farro and cherry agrodolce at Orto restaurant...

Sauteed duck with farro and cherry agrodolce at Orto restaurant in Miller Place. (Mar. 2012) Credit: Newsday/Peter M. Gianotti

Orto, the stylish offspring of Kitchen A Bistro and Kitchen A Trattoria  in St. James, is growing tastefully in Miller Place.

Chef Eric Lomando prepares refined, flavorful variations on what's billed as "rustic Italian" cuisine in his new kitchen. And, whether you're ordering a la carte or enjoying his fixed-price menus, you're getting plenty for your money.

Orto sprouts on the former address of Brian Scott's American eatery. The newcomer's name suggests a vegetable or kitchen garden.

So, you can begin with tasty roasted cauliflower accented with a "bagna cauda" vinaigrette and Parmesan cheese; or slather sundried-tomato tapenade on the house's good bread.

Also recommended: braised meatballs atop polenta, sauteed duck with farro and sweet-sour cherries, and a delicious raviolo with ricotta, mushroom and egg.

A three-course, fixed-price dinner is $38; four-course, $48.  A la carte, main dishes are $23; pastas, $12 for small order and $20 for full; appetizers, $6 to $13. Credit cards are not accepted.

There is no corkage fee, so this is a very good place to bring your own wines.

Orto, 90 North Country Rd., Miller Place; 631-473-0014. But they currently prefer that you call 631-862-0151 for reservations.

Sauteed duck at Orto.