Pierluigi Sacchetti, whose Italian cuisine earned three stars at his former restaurant in Lynbrook, is preparing some of Long Island's best pastas at Noble Kitchen & Cocktails in Oceanside.
At his new gig, where he's head chef, Sacchetti devotes a section of the menu to housemade pastas. His previous restaurant was Da Gigi Trattoria & Bar.
Since he arrived here in June, the Oceanside kitchen has been a source of porcini, white truffles, and other seasonal ingredients.
You would have to go a long way to rival Sacchetti's version of cacio e pepe, the classic Roman pasta made with pecorino Romano cheese and cracked black pepper. It's a fairly simple dish. But, done right, it's a grand one. He uses fettuccine instead of bucatini or tonnarelli. The pecorino and the pepper are bound to the fettuccine. Four ingredients yield a four-star pasta, lush with just enough bite. ($18)
His cacio e pepe is rivalled by maccheroni al ferretto, which features the long fusilli of Calabria, fiery 'nduja sausage, and shaved caciocavallo cheese. The result: a sensational spin on the fra diavolo theme, with electric heat and a genuine invitation to the region of southwest Italy that's the toe of the boot. If you want to enjoy a singularly spicy pasta, this is the one. ($21)
Sacchetti's delectable gnocchetti di mare, a mainstay in his previous dining room, are served here. The saffron pasta is enriched with shrimp, crab, pistachio crumbs, and a light rose sauce ($26). Chicche al pesto brings an early hint of summer: mini-potato gnocchi with the traditional Genovese sauce ($18). You'll also find a savory lasagna Bolognese with a rich ragu and bechamel sauce ($20); and capellacci di Parma, the hat-shaped version of spinach ravioli in butter-and-sage sauce ($22).
Noble's fare takes in dishes as different from these pastas as tuna nachos, baby back ribs, chicken Parm "pizzas," roasted salmon, steak frites, and a 10-ounce burger with Cheddar, caramelized onion and bacon.
You could say the eatery is eclectic. Sacchetti's pastas make it mandatory.
Noble is open Tuesday to Saturday, 5 p.m. to 10 p.m., and Sunday, 4 p.m. to 9 p.m.
Noble Kitchen & Cocktails, 3112 Lawson Blvd., Oceanside, 516-600-9500, noblekitchenandcocktails.com