Port Washington: Art at Louie's

It's a meaty, snowy fish, related to cod. Sometimes, it ends up in surimi to make mock crab meat; sometimes, it's substituted for haddock.

Last night, it was a special at Louie's Oyster Bar & Grille, a hefty cut of snowy fish, surrounded by drizzles of two sauces from a squeeze bottle.

Yes, this is a long intro. But how else do you build up to a dish named "Jackson Pollock"?

It was good — in an abstract-expressionist kind of way.

Louie's is worth a visit these days, not specifically for this bit of whimsy, but because it has become much more consistent. And the restaurant offers a pleasing waterside perch overlooking Manhasset Bay. Go for the raw bar, lobsters and, in a surprise, a satisfying version of macaroni-and-cheese that holds lobster, scallops and shrimp in the Gouda-driven sauce.

For the record, Louie's Jackson Pollock went for $23; the "uptown" mac-and-cheese, $22.

Louie's is at 395 Main St., Port Washington; 516-883-4242.