Pronto

Which is not to say that a dinner at Pronto is the equivalent of a meal at a cozy Roman trattoria. Still, the food is imbued with the kind of honest rusticity that might lead one to (wrongly in this case) suspect a caring nonna in the kitchen.

Once, to start, the house-made focaccia, fragrant with rosemary and glistening with olive oil, seemed to have come directly from oven to table. The next time, however, it was cold and a bit dried out.

Dinner began with arancino, a fried rice ball that arrived piping hot, crunchy on the outside, creamy within, studded with peas and ground beef. In cool contrast was a sparkling pulpo (octopus) salad, given a subtle citrus boost from the orange peel in its vinaigrette dressing. At lunch, a salad of endive, radicchio and nicely grilled shrimp was at once light and filling. But while the mussels al pesto were fresh and plump, their sauce lacked sufficient basil flavor. I was more impressed with gamberi prosciutto, marinated shrimp wrapped in prosciutto and baked to salty succulence. At lunch, the stuzzhichini platter -- an appetizer combination plate -- translated into an attractive arrangement of stuffed zucchini, lush with melted cheese, shrimp and marinated vegetables done on the grill, prosciutto and fresh mozzarella, along with a rich spinach and potato croquette. If only the tomatoes on the plate had been better.

When the wind whipped down Deer Park Avenue, a bowl of savory chicken escarole soup proved particularly warming. I also enjoyed the pasta fagioli (pasta and white bean soup), although it needed a bit more salt.

Marrali's al dente cannelloni Genovese, house-made sheets of pasta, was stuffed with a creamy mixture of ricotta, chicken and spinach before being rolled up. As good as it was, next time, I'd request an alternative to the too-rich pink sauce that topped it. A friend who ordered the pasticcio della nonna -- meatballs and sausage in a vibrant pomodoro sauce over imported angel hair pasta -- was delighted with its homey goodness; I concurred. Another dish that rang true was rigatoni amatriciana, al dente tubes in a smoky tomato sauce studded with bits of pancetta and onion.

Our friendly waiter suggested ordering chicken scarpariello, which wasn't on the menu. What came was a classic saute of chicken and sausage, herbal and garlicky, given an unusual twist by the addition of crisp fried zucchini on top. Even more unconventional was a special of short ribs in an orange-flavored sauce that tasted somehow Asian. If the softly braised meat had not been so truly good, I might have asked this Italian chef "What were you thinking?" I would, however, pose that question regarding the dish's accompaniment of mashed potatoes, which had been pureed to the point of soup.

As a finale, I preferred the light and creamy tiramisu to the overly sweet chocolate mousse cake crowned with raspberry sauce and sabayon. Best, though, was the complimentary chocolate profiterole presented with my espresso at lunch. Like the restaurant itself, it was a surprise treat.

Reviewed by Joan Reminick, 3/3/06.