Back in 2008, when Willy Parkers American Bar & Grill first opened in Williston Park, it was a pub with culinary aspirations as well as a highly qualified chef.

A two-star “Cheap Eats” review began like this: “Michael Moran takes familiar pub-grub cliches and makes them new. His crock of sweet and spicy orange rosemary nuts is one of the few restaurant dishes I've considered reproducing at home. Order some with a beer or a glass of wine and you won't be able to stop nibbling.”

Not long after the review ran, Moran left and took his nuts with him. Last time I visited, the place was staffed by line cooks, who pumped out the kind of humdrum stuff worthy of half a star, if that.

Now, the windows are covered over with old newspapers and Willy Parkers is no more. Sad, wouldn't you say?

2008 Newsday Photo of Willy Parkers/Robert Mecea

Newsday LogoSUBSCRIBEUnlimited Digital AccessOnly 25¢for 5 months